OK. I won’t lie. I’ve been a little lax with my blogging duties. This post was meant to be out in time for Halloween, ya’ know cos of the spookiness, but my parents were visiting, we went out of town, the weather was too good for writing, the dog ate my blog- take your pick of poor excuses for my being late!
Apparently, in Hebrew, my name means “princess”. I don’t know any Hebrew so I can’t be certain but the internet Gods have confirmed it. The word “princess” has sometimes been levied against me in a negative way, which is totally uncool. Like, when I return some food to a restaurant kitchen because it’s cold I get called a princess. Or because I like to fly Business Class and stay in 5* hotels when I travel. I mean, if you can, why the heck not, am I right?! Anyway, just to prove that I can live without luxury (more to myself than anyone else) I agreed to stay in a very basic B&B, Mulu Village when Hubs and I went to Mulu National Park.
You can walk, fly or longboat your way into Mulu. You can’t drive in. There is one road, which is about 1.5 miles long which basically runs from the tiny airport to the Marriott Hotel (yes I gave up the chance to stay at the Marriott in favour of its next door neighbour).
On our first day we did the Canopy Walk, which is a 480m walkway suspended 20m high up in the forest. What I wasn’t quite prepared for was just how much the walkway would wobble as I cautiously stepped along it. Not for the faint-hearted. The view and sounds were incredible. We had a helpful Guide who was also trained in
witchcraft homeopathy and so we stopped a lot to discuss the benefits, and also perils, of various plants, including some funky mushrooms. Basically what I took from the tour was that, if you ever get lost in the jungle, don’t eat anything.
Afterwards we took another tour to the Deer Caves, which include the world’s largest cave passage or so they thought until Vietnam turned up a bigger one. I learned the difference between stalactites (mineral formations which hang down from the ceiling of the cave) and stalagmites (formations which grow upwards from the cave floor).
We were part of a pretty big tour group, which included a bunch of kids and so when one of them pointed out the biggest spider I have ever seen in my life I had to play it cool and act like it was no big thing when in reality I was breaking out into a sweat and very close to using one of those brats to squash the hell out of that thing.
The caves are home to two to three million bats and everybody goes to the Showcaves hoping to catch a glimpse of the Bat Exodus. At dusk i.e. dinnertime millions of bats fly out of the caves in a spiral formation. It was one of the most fascinating sights I’ve ever seen. Some of those bats know they won’t make it because of predator hawks and they sacrifice themselves for the good of the group. That’s some hardcore family loving. I’ve never seen anything like it.
Back at the ranch the electricity was turned on (it was powered by a generator so understandably we only got a few hours the morning and in the evenings) and so I took a freezing-cold shower, in the worlds smallest bathroom. We were exhausted enough to be in bed by 9PM and to fall asleep quite easily despite the chugging sounds of the generator. Next day I was rudely awakened by the neighbour’s rooster screaming at us at 5AM. It was a hot night and so I’d thrown the covers off and allowed myself to be bitten eight, yes eight, times on my legs by wretched mosquitoes even though I sprayed myself, the room, the bed, my clothes etc. with 50% deet spray the night before.
The B&B is run by a really lovely couple, Brenda and James. James comes from a jungle tribe. They provided us with some really great insight into the history of James’s tribe and the development of the National Park. Sadly they’ve been embroiled in litigation with the Malaysian Government for over a decade as the Government basically took over the land to create the national park (which is very lucrative, I’m sure) and refused to compensate our good hosts and other local people. This means the Government provides no support to them which is why they don’t have electricity nor running water. (The Government sponsored Marriott hotel does have those benefits). I was so sorry to hear of their poor treatment and really glad to have supported their business and so, even though I struggled without the luxuries I’m used to, I’d definitely urge you to stay at their longhouse if you ever go to Mulu, which you absolutely should. It’s beautiful.